It’s been on my ‘must eat’ list for a good while now
and how it’s taken me this long I’m not entirely sure. I suspect my mischievous
and rather noisy 2 year old might have something to do with it. As a restaurant
catering better for those without children in tow, I was delighted to become
Lunchquests’ ‘special guest’, having bagged the 1000th follower spot on
Twitter.
Mark Greenaway, at 35, has created quite a reputation for
himself. He has 3 AA rosettes under his
belt, voted rising chef of the year in 2011, shortlisted for Restaurant of the
Year 2012 and recently appeared on Great British Menu (for the second time).
Mark Greenaway’s’ restaurant now occupies what was formerly
Librizzi’s. Now with a clean, fresh make
over, soothing blue walls, bistro chairs, vintage chandeliers and custom
stainless steel, it has a very unfussy, laid back feel. We dined on a particularly blustery day and
there was a fair bit of whistling through the windows, a bit distracting but comes
with the beauty of Edinburgh’s traditional sash and case windows.
 |
| Interior |
Never one to pass up a soup course, Blythe ordered the Jerusalem
Artichoke Veloute, velvety smooth and super shiny. I didn’t get a taste but it seemed to tick all
the soup experts’ boxes. I was busying
myself with my ham hough and pork ballotine, served with a beautifully sweet,
seared scallop and tiny chewy apple meringues and a contrasting wild garlic
mayonnaise, both in colour and taste.
This really was a stunning looking dish, with a taste that far surpassed
its appearance.
 |
| Pork Balloutine |
Our mains followed suit, with an impressive crispy, skinned, flaky,
fleshed sea bream fillet accompanied by razor clams and butter sauce. Blythe’s cauliflower risotto was as silky as
expected with a soup like consistency, tiny nuggets of cauliflower and al dente
rice.
I’m not normally one for desserts but was easily talked into the
Peanut Caramel Cheesecake. An almost
infamous dessert that, like many of the dishes, has followed Mark from his
previous home in Picardy Place. And rightly so! A peanut butter wafer construction,
surrounded by warm toffee sauce (poured at the table) with tempered chocolate,
studded with roasted nuts, a dessert truly worth loosening the belt buckle for. Blythe’s Rhubarb and Custard fishbowl was a
more delicate affair. Rhubarb sorbet was
accompanied by tiny meringues, rhubarb compote, fluid gels and crisps, displaying
a love of modern techniques, making for an interesting, palate cleansing close
to a meal.
 |
| Dessert |
We finished with good espressos which were delivered
promptly so they were at the right temperature (lukewarm espressos are a pet
hate of mine) and petit fours, which were yet another showcase of the kitchen’s
talents with all things sweet.
This really was a beautiful lunch, the time, consideration and
construction of the dishes is something to be marvelled at, yet the flavours
are simple, unfussy and complimentary.
The staff are efficient, friendly and clearly happy in their new location.
I hope Mark Greenaway’s’ flourishes to
become a firm favourite in Edinburgh’s restaurant scene, it’s a new one in
mine!
This review was written for Lunchquest, find the full review here....http://lunchquest.co.uk/2013/05/mark-greenaway-2/
